Food journeys: Part one

My chef training was very traditional. We had just one recipe book at College: Auguste Escoffier's Le Guide Culinaire. I learnt the fundamentals of all aspects of cookery. There was patisserie with its exactness and technical skill, and stocks and sauces as the backbone of the kitchen. I learnt how to butcher and fishmonger. We practiced and practiced, repeating recipes and techniques. This has, and will, always stand me in good stead. I also really appreciated working with more experienced, talented chefs who inspired and supported me in those formative years.

So, story one begins with an old spice mix/rub that has perhaps has fallen out of flavour. Épices Rabelais is a heavenly south of France mix with influences from Asia and North Africa. Like many things that taste great, it is simple to make. Using a spice grinder or the bottom of a liquidiser, blitz fresh rosemary, coriander seeds, bay leaf, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon stick and star anise. If think for a moment where all these components come from, you'll have an idea about the spice trail linking continents and countries. Every time I make this, I cannot help but plant my nose into the blender to enjoy its heady aroma!

Épices Rabelais has so many uses. If you make your own sausages or terrines, it's a must. It's also great as a rub before grilling chicken or an oily fish. It keeps for a week or so, but can turn a little musty if kept longer due to the fresh herbs. There are no specific quantities as such to share, but it's generally 70% fresh ingredients to 30% dry spices. You can, of course, make as little or as much as you like. If you want it to store a little longer and make a bigger batch, you can use all dried ingredients. It doesn't then have quite the same heady aroma but works all the same.

So, from a simple recipe developed in 1880 by Reynaud de Mazan in Marseille to 145 years later, this invention is still exciting food and taste buds and standing the test of time.